Day OneOmkaareshwar / Mamaleshwar - 9th Feb'10We planned our trip from
Mumbai, to meet up there and start our journey of the 5
Jyothirlingas. On 9
th Feb'10 we checked out of Leela
Kempinski to get a flight to Indore. We landed in Indore at 10 AM. Checked into Hotel Lemon Tree - good one for a budget hotel. By 11.00 am we were on the road to
Omkareshwar in the hotel car. Good driver.
Enroute, little before
Omkareshwar on the banks of Narmada river is a small eatery where they make good tea and
Poha (made from rice flakes). Reached the temple at 1.00pm. Straight went in for
Abhishek, afterwhich, we performed
pooja outside the sanctum.
MamaleshwarThis temple is on the other bank of River Narmada diagonally opposite to Omkareshwar. Performed Abhishek here as well. Mamaleshwar is the twin Jyothirling of Omkareshwar and the visit is not complete till both places are seen.
We drove back to Indore city and reached our hotel by 6.00pm. We rested till 11.00pm and after a shower and late dinner we got ready for our drive to Ujjain Mahakaaleshwar.
Day 2 - Mahakaaleshwar - 10th Feb'10We checked out of our hotel close to midnight and reached Ujjain Mahakaaleshwar temple at 2.15am with a tea stop included. Our driver arranged an entry ticket for the early morning aarthi. This is the most important time to visit the temple as there is no other aarthi as this. Despite having the entry tickets which are limited to only about 350 people every morning, we had to stand in the queue to get a better view of the sanctum. It was worth the effort as we had a fantastic view of the Shiv Ling. I strongly recommend every Hindu to visit this temple for the morning Aarthi. Finishing of the aarthi is done by Ashes from a newly burnt funeral pyre collected by Aghoris from the nearby cremation grounds. A large group of priests stand around the ling playing various drums, brass discs, conch and bells while the aarthi is in progress. The entire ritual lasts over an hour and time just flies.
We were allowed into the sanctum at 6.00 am where we had the opportunity to complete the Abhishek by 6.30 am.
Very close to the temple is Harsiddhi Devi Mandir - A Shakthipeetha. We visited this temple too and were on our way back to Indore to get the flight to Pune for Bhimashanker.
We could not visit Kal Bhairav mandir as we totally run out of time. We planned to go back to Ujjain sometime next year and spend a couple of days.
Bhimashanker - Still Day 2We arrived in Pune at 11.00am by Kingfisher Flight from Indore. Hired a car from the airport with assistance from the airport manager Mr.Muralidhar - to Bhimashanker and Shirdi. It is a very scenic route from Pune to Bhimashanker and takes about 3 hours. We arrived at the temple by 3.00pm. Walked down about 150 steps to reach the sanctum. Luckily not much crowd when we arrived. By 6pm we finished the Abhishek and were on our way back. This is truly an untouched ancient temple. The mountains around Bhimashanker are just magnificient.
Shirdi - Still Day 2 & Day 3 - 11th Feb'10From Bhimashanker to Shirdi via the Pune-Nasik highway, it is about 70 kms. We reached Shirdi at 9.30pm after changing a flat tyre on the way. We checked into our pre-booked Sanskriti Resorts. After having a quick shower and a lite meal we went to the Samadhi Mandir at midnight to get into the queue for the 4am kagada Aarthi. The three hours in the queue complex were not bad as we were accompanied by my brother and Bhabhi who joined us from Sanskriti Resorts. My friend and I had our stories to tell of the last 48 hours and they had their stories of the car ride from Hyderabad to Shirdi where they had a few bad experiences.
At 3.45 am the gates opened to make our way from the queue complex to the sanctum. There was utter chaos - people jumping the metal barriers to get to the front. Over 300 people jumped the bars and got before us. Which was rather dissappointing. However, SaiBaba was kind to us and we were just lucky to stand in a place where the altar was right in front of us. This, while all the other about 1000 people were made to sit. We three were allowed to stand. That said something to us. It was Thursday supposedly an auspicious day for Shirdi Sai Baba and we were more than pleased to have had such a grand view of the aarthi.
We were out of the temple by 7am. Straight to Breakfast and then to bed till 10.00am.
Shani Signapur - Day 3 - 11th Feb '10As my brother brought the car from Hyderabad, we got into the car after check-out at 11.00 am and drove to Shani Signapur. Although the temple is quite simple and known to be a powerful worship place the shops outside are highly commercial and to an extent cheat the pilgrims. Once you arrive at the place, shopkeepers offer you orange dhotis to go and get a shower. Once that is done you are asked to make a choice on what kind of Abishek you would like to do etc., etc., When its all over they demand upto Rs.1500 per head for acually nothing at all. I found a way to beat the system although it was after this terrible experience. Here are the tips.... Do not park your car near any of those shops. Get an orange dhothi for as little as Rs.100 from anywhere other than the temple vicinity. Go and get a shower. Get your own Gingeley oil for the Abhishek as the shops are selling Palm Oil, which directly go into a reservoir from under the statue of Shani Maharaj. The oil collected in the reservoir is sold to Manufacturers of Detergents and Soaps. Actually if you speak to a Brahmin, he will suggest that you should use Gingeley oil and that too 1.25 ltrs. Whatever flowers or leaves that need to be bought can be purchased outside the temple for as little as 50 rupees. DO NOT GO TO ANY OF THOSE SHOPS. If you went there unprepared... demand the shops to give you the entire deal for under Rs.400 including the oil. Not a penny more.
Nasik Triambakeshwar - Day 3We left Signapur by 2.00pm for Nasik. Arrived in Nasik at 5.00pm including a lunch stop and checked into our pre-booked Hotel Gateway International. Earlier this was a Taj property and a good hotel. We were told that the Triambakeshwar temple was closed that evening in preparations for next day's Shivarathri. We took it easy and caught up on some much required rest.
Triambakeshwar - Day 4 - 12th Feb'10 (Shivarathri)Following morning we checked out of Gateway after a Shivrathri Breakfast which was made of Barley and potatoes as per the norms. We reached Triambakeshwar at 11.00 am after a 26kms drive and checked into Dhruv Palace Hotel. The only decent hotel in that area. Later it proved to be such a good idea to check out of Gateway and take a hotel nearer to the temple. Once we arrived there, we were told by the hotel staff that the darshan would take 7 to 8 hours and the queue is mostly out in the sun. And no question of any Abhishek at all, as it was Shivrathri. We sunk into our seats in the hotel's restaurant not knowing what to do. We decided to get some more rest till about 5pm and then go to the temple and take our chances as the temple would be open all night on that day. At 6.00pm after a good rest and a cold shower we made our way to the temple, which is only a 10 minute walk. We were told it would take 3 hours now for the darshan, but still no entry into the sanctum sanctorum. We found one of the temple priests outside the temple and asked if there was any possibility of Abhishek. He knew we were outsiders and he said we can do Abhishek only next morning and if we agree to that we will be given an opportunity to go into the temple for darshan straightaway. He took us in for darshan till the door of the sanctum and then we were to come back next morning at 5.00 am for Abhishek. We were just lucky again that we found him. The whole thing was done in under 1 hour.
Day 5 - 13th Feb'10Next morning all three of us were in orange dhotis as we were not allowed to wear any of the regular clothes including the inner wear. Just the dhotis. The Abhishek was quick, about 2 minutes each.. however the main pooja was done outside the door of the sanctum. This is the only linga that is below the ground level of the sanctum and there is a regular flow of water from the Godavari river that fill the hollow inside which the 3 lingas are situated. To view the lingas one must remove the water by hand and then touch them.
We completed all rituals at the temple by 7am and then went to see the Godavari Kund behind the temple. By 8.15am we were back at our hotel. There is also the Bhramagiri temple on top of the mountain next to the temple where the story of Triambakeshwar originally started. It takes about 5 hrs to get there and back for a physically fit person.
We made our way back to Nasik and then to Grishneshwar near Ellora. The drive of about 200 kms took 4 hours with a tea stop. We reached Ellora first and were amazed to see the history carved out so meticulously. This site is a must see. The place closes at 6pm.
We reached Grishneshwar temple which is almost walkable distance from Ellore Caves around 6.30pm. As it was the next day of Shivarathri the Mela was still on and there were hundereds in the queue. We were told the temple would close at 8pm and that we come back the following morning at 5am for the aarthi. This temple looks like it was vandalised during the moghul regime of Aurangazeb as there is a mosque just at the entrance of the temple made of a similar stone as that of the temple. Need to find out more about it.
We drove back towards Ellore and found a hotel called Kailash Resorts. Good one. They had cabins built in a wooded area and was quite scenic.
Day 6 - 14th Feb'10We started our day at 4am and reached the temple at 5.30 AM for the Rudrabhishek. It was a great experience as they called in 5 students from their Veda Pathshala to recite vedic mantras during our Abhishek. Five of them chanting in unison is truly mesmerising. We completed all rituals by 7am. We were back at our hotel by 7.30am. Checked out of Kailash Resorts at 9am and made our way to Aurangabad and then to Tulja Bhavani Temple in Tuljapur which is on the way t Hyderabad. This temple is also a Shakti peetha.
We reached Hyderabad at midnight. The entire trip was completed in just 7 days. When we look back we still can't believe that we did it in such a short time.
Sharath
